THE ZAMBEZI
by Terry Babich

Been there, done that. Huh

Who won?

The GREAT ZAMBEZI.

" Fish with teeth that belong on one of the large cats.
Tsetse flies that bite like hell.
Elephants that roam the camps at night.
Hippos that charge.
Roads worse than Sani pass.
Crocodile's unseen and a natural beauty unsurpassed.
As mere mortals we can't compare". 

All photography by R. Small,
except where otherwise indicated

 

Two South Africa boys (Terry and Tim Babich) off to the lower Zambezi (30/09/03) a trip of approximately 1700 km from Johannesburg to Chewore on the northern most border of Zimbabwe. Kitted out with enough fishing tackle to sink the Queen Mary, 16 rods, 20 reels, lures, flies and all the accessories to fit.

"We are going tiger fishing".

The plan was to take three days to get there and to travel only during the day to avoid any accidents with large trucks and wandering animals. We took 250 liter's of fuel with us, for the trip back from Harare, as we were able to organise petrol from some of the locals in Harare for the balance of the trip.

You cannot get petrol in Zimbabwe, but you might be able to buy at garages and from locals at the side of the road,  besides being able to buy diesel on the road, you will also have the opportunities to contribute to a local welfare organization whilst traveling. They are easily identified by the dilapidated wheelchairs with red flags attached to them while patrolling the highways (I use that term loosely) of Zimbabwe. So if you are traveling these roads look out for a few guys in wheelchairs riding down the road in a manner that will cause you to stop or ride them over.

You will find a few roadblocks on your travels and the best way to get through them is to be unbearably pleasant. The modes operandi of these officials can be to make your life difficult, in order to get a bribe, but if you are very friendly you will have few troubles.

You will also be able to purchase a variety of stone and wooden curios at ridiculously low prices, and you can even barter for goods: commodities like pants, shoes, shirts and fishing hooks can be handsomely rewarded, but if you let them know you are willing to barter then you must be prepared to be mobbed, these people are desperate.

Purchasing cold drinks can be a mission, if you think you will need cold drinks on the journey, it is advisable to keep some empty bottles, as the deposit on an empty bottle can be more expensive than the drink. If you want have to buy along the road, then it is best to pay in the local currency, example: a coke could cost you equal to R3 for a 350 ml, but if you paid in Rands, be prepared to pay up to R8 for a 350 ml bottle.